Travel guides/Egypt

Egypt, slowly

Ten days from Cairo to Luxor and the Red Sea: the pyramids at opening time, Tutankhamun's gold, sunrise in a hot air balloon and long lunches by the Nile.

The pyramids of Giza seen across the olive garden of the Grand Egyptian Museum

Route: Cairo → Luxor → Red Sea
Time: 8–10 days
Best months: October to April
Currency: Egyptian pound (EGP)
Getting around: Go Bus or 1-hour flight

The route

Egypt rewards a slow pace. The sites are vast, the days are warm and the best light comes early, so this route keeps mornings for the big places and leaves afternoons free for tea, shade and wandering.

Days 1–2

Cairo

Zamalek's leafy streets and shops, Islamic Cairo and Khan el-Khalili, and an afternoon in New Cairo, which feels like a different city altogether.

Day 3

The pyramids

A full day for Giza and the Sphinx, starting at opening time.

Day 4

Grand Egyptian Museum

A full day for the museum. Then head south to Luxor by Go Bus or a short flight.

Days 5–7

Luxor

Sunrise balloon over the West Bank, the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's temple, Karnak and Luxor Temple after dark.

Days 8–10

The Red Sea

Fly or drive to the coast and do very little: shallow turquoise water, island days and fresh fish. Or head to Aswan instead for felucca evenings and Philae Temple.

Days 1–2

Cairo

Where to stay: Zamalek or Downtown

Hotels near the pyramids have a beautiful view, but the area around them isn't as nice to spend time in. Stay in Zamalek or Downtown instead: you're close to the Nile, cafés and shops, and Giza is an easy Uber ride away.

Zamalek

My favourite part of Cairo, next to the history. An island in the Nile with tree-lined streets, old villas, galleries, concept stores and cafés. Don't miss MADU and Maison 69, two beautiful shops I loved, then browse the books at Diwan on 26th of July Street and finish with a long coffee.

Islamic Cairo & Khan el-Khalili

Mosques, minarets and quiet courtyards, then the old bazaar in the evening, with mint tea and spice shops stacked to the ceiling. Wear comfortable shoes and cover shoulders and knees.

Wooden chairs and white tablecloths on a terrace in front of stone columns and mashrabiya screens — Golden hour at Studio Misr.

Studio Misr

An Egyptian restaurant in a beautiful old building in Al-Azhar Park, with wooden mashrabiya screens, a terrace and a view over the Citadel. Go for sunset and order a mezze spread.

New Cairo & Bascota

New Cairo feels completely different to every other part of the city: calm, green and modern. Don't miss Bascota, a lovely bakery with fig cake, almond orange tart and the flakiest pastries.

Sunset over the minarets and domes of Islamic Cairo, with a palm tree in the foreground — Sunset over the minarets of Islamic Cairo.

Bakery counter with fig cake under a glass dome, almond orange tarts and mango croissants — Fig cake and mango croissants at Bascota, New Cairo.

Wooden shelves of glass jars filled with spices and herbs, with dried herbs in bins below — Cardamom, dukkah, myrrh and hibiscus by the scoop.

Anna in a white linen dress in front of the Pyramid of Khafre under a blue sky — The Pyramid of Khafre, which still has some of its original casing stones at the top.

Days 3–4

Giza & the museum

If you want to dive into the history, give the pyramids and the museum one full day each. Trying to fit both into one day feels rushed, so spend the extra time here and see other parts of Egypt on the remaining days.

Pyramids of Giza

Arrive when the gates open. The light is soft, the air is cool and you'll have the plateau almost to yourself for a while.

The Sphinx

Walk down from the pyramids to the Valley Temple for the classic view of the Sphinx with Khafre's pyramid behind.

Grand Egyptian Museum

The new museum at the edge of the plateau, home to the full Tutankhamun collection. Give it a whole day, and look out of the windows: the pyramids are right there.

Wear something light and loose for Giza. White linen keeps you cool, and it photographs beautifully against the stone.

The Great Sphinx in front of the Pyramid of Khafre under a pale blue sky — The Sphinx and the Pyramid of Khafre.

Close-up of Tutankhamun's golden coffin with inlaid eyes, crook and flail — Tutankhamun's gold coffin, Grand Egyptian Museum.

Balloons over the West Bank, just after sunrise.

Days 5–7

Luxor

Sunrise balloon ride

The most magical hour of the trip. Pick-up is before dawn and you float over the fields, villages and temples of the West Bank as the sun comes up.

Valley of the Kings

A standard ticket includes three tombs. Tutankhamun's and Seti I's tombs need their own tickets, and Seti I's is worth it.

Temple of Hatshepsut

Terraced into the cliffs at Deir el-Bahari. Go early, as there's very little shade.

Karnak & Luxor Temple

Karnak's avenue of ram-headed sphinxes and its hall of painted columns in the morning, Luxor Temple in the evening when it's lit up.

Lunch by the Nile

Between temples, find a shaded terrace on the river for kofta, tahini, tabbouleh and a long view of the boats.

Colonnaded terrace of the Temple of Hatshepsut against the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari — Temple of Hatshepsut.

Plates of kofta, rice, hummus and tabbouleh on a shaded terrace overlooking the Nile — Lunch with a Nile view.

Row of ram-headed sphinxes in front of stone columns at Karnak, with a palm tree — Ram-headed sphinxes, Karnak.

Looking up at painted papyrus columns covered in hieroglyphs against a blue sky at Karnak — Painted columns in the Great Hypostyle Hall, Karnak.

Water this clear, straight off the boat.

Days 8–10

The Red Sea

After a week of temples, end on the coast. The water is clear and warm, the reefs start right off the beach and the desert mountains turn pink in the evening.

An island day

Take a boat out to the islands off Hurghada for shallow lagoons, snorkelling and a lazy lunch in the shade.

Snorkel the reefs

Even a few metres from shore you'll see coral and bright fish. Bring reef-safe sunscreen.

Look out for dolphins

On the boat out to the islands, keep an eye on the water. Dolphins often swim alongside the boats.

Wooden shade huts with benches standing in shallow turquoise water, with desert mountains across the sea — Shallow turquoise water and mountains across the bay.

Dolphins swimming alongside the boat.

Tours worth booking

Book ahead

These are the experiences that I booked and recommend. Most have free cancellation.

Sunrise hot air balloon rideHod Hod Soliman Balloons, Luxor · about 3–4 hours incl. pick-up

See dates

Pyramids & Sphinx with a guideGiza · half day

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Grand Egyptian Museum tourGiza · half day

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Valley of the Kings & HatshepsutLuxor West Bank · day trip

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Island day & snorkellingHurghada · full day

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These are affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Camels resting in the desert in front of the pyramids of Giza

My Egypt map

Every place, saved

All the temples, cafés, hotels and viewpoints from this guide in one Google Maps list. Save it to your phone before you go.

ZamalekStudio MisrBascotaGizaGrand Egyptian MuseumKhan el-KhaliliKarnakValley of the KingsDeir el-BahariRed Sea

Open my Egypt map

Good to know

Visa. You can get your visa directly at the airport when you land. It costs $35, and at Cairo airport you can pay by card or in cash.
Getting around the cities. Book Uber Comfort. The cars are newer and more comfortable, the price is fixed in the app and we never had any issues.
Between cities. Go Bus is the easiest way to travel between cities: comfortable, air-conditioned and easy to book online.
Cash for tips. Tipping is part of daily life. Keep small notes for guides, drivers and bathroom attendants.
Agree prices first. For camel rides, carriages and taxis, settle the price before you set off.
Dress. Light, loose clothes that cover shoulders and knees are comfortable in the heat and respectful at mosques and churches.
Start early. Most sites open early. Be there at opening and rest through the hottest part of the afternoon.